Rats… I hate rats!
We dropped our bushcraft kits in my shop when we got home. I’d just taught my grandson to cook his first simple meal over our campfire – Raman noodles! The next morning I was greeted with this…
In our excitement over his latest bushcraft lesson, we forgot to remove his food items from his pack.
Apparently, rats love Raman noodles.
Actually, these rodents will eat just about anything. We were fortunate that we only lost a pack of cheap noodles and was left with only one extra opening in his pack. If left to their own survival instincts – they gotta eat – rats can destroy non-hardened food storage items and spread disease.
I’m always trying to build a better mouse trap. I saw a couple of bucket rat traps on YouTube that seemed clever. This would be the perfect time to test the theory.
Here’s how to make a bucket rat trap in 15 minutes from everyday stuff.
Here’s What You’ll Need
- One 5 gallon bucket
- One unopened can of liquid
- Ice pick, awl, or drill bit for making holes
- Pliers, Wire, Bait – peanut butter
First Step
Drill two holes on opposite sides of the bucket about a half-inch below the rim. The hole diameter should be a little larger than the wire you’ve chosen to use.
Second Step
Remove the paper label. Use you’re ice pick or drill to bore a hole in the center of the can lid. If you plan to reuse the liquid, turn the can over and bore another hole in the bottom of the can over a container. This will vent the can and empty in a few minutes.
Third Step
Skewer the can with the wire. This took time and patience trying to thread the wire through the second hole blindly. You could use a clear water bottle with the cap on to make this easier.
Once the wire is through both ends, make sure the wire extends a few inches past the bucket on both edges. With the threaded can centered over the bucket, crimp the wire at both ends of the can. This will keep the can sliding to the edge of the bucket which would defeat the trap.
Once crimped, insert the wire into both holes. You will need to bend the second side of the wire to get it in the hole. Just straighten the wire after it’s through the hole. Center the can over the bucket opening and bend the spare wire on the outside of the bucket around the bucket rim to keep the can centered over the bucket.
Fourth Step
If you think you’ve got a rat to deal with, pour about 6 to 8 inches of water in the bucket. Big rats can jump. The water prevents the vermin from leaping to freedom. For mice, use less water. At least that’s the theory…
Project Alert
Warning: You’re about to see dead stuff! If easily offended by the sight of dead rats, turn back now!
Just walked out to my shop to check the bait and Ratzilla just ran up the wall onto some storage shelves. This sucker stands on the edge of the bucket eating my peanut butter!
Change of plans. This bucket trap may work for mice but not for this nemesis! As Roy Scheider, star of Jaws, said when he laid eyes on the shark, “Your going to need a bigger boat.” When dealing with Ratzilla and his kin, you’re going to need a bigger bucket!
I stand there in shock as he hides on top of the shelf mocking me with his shrieks. It’s on! No more cute little YouTube contraptions. You know, there are times when a better mouse trap has already been built. Use it!
I pulled a rat trap from my bushcraft kit. Large rat traps are part of my survival trapping kit. They’re useful for trapping tree rats (squirrels) and other small game in a survival scenario.
I’ll finish the MOUSE trap tutorial in a moment. But for now, I’ll share my progression of trap sets for this monster…
Epic fail!
The Victor rat trap trigger had been stripped of peanut butter and was dangling from the bucket. Now what? DRG suggested that the “Stairway to Heaven” was not wide enough and the Victor trap needed to be placed, as designed, flat on the floor. I reset the trap and anchored it. I’ve had rats drag traps out of reach before. Rotting rat inside a wall is not pleasant!
I ditched the bucket and used the Victor rat trap alone. Think he’ll drag 10 pounds?
Update: He didn’t have to. He cleaned the peanut butter off the trigger… AGAIN!! I’m ready to load the .38 with snake shot! On second thought, he may take a hollow point. This is war!
DRG suggested using a different bait, one he wouldn’t easily remove. I modified the trigger to make the V-shaped metal tab stick up at a 45º angle. I then formed a ball of cheese around the trigger and reset the trap.
Thirty minutes later I flip the light switch on with my neck hair bristled. It looked like a murder scene minus the white chalk outline. Finally, Ratzilla was dead. I’ll spare you the bloody shots. No, this is not the bloody shot below. He measured over 15 inches from nose to tip of the tail.
If you see one, there is usually more. And they don’t leave on their own accord. I reset the trap after 11 o’clock that night – way past my bed time. Checked the next morning and one of his girlfriends couldn’t resist the cheese. Disposed of her and reset. You guessed it, caught another one! Three dead rats.
Note about sanitation: Avoid handling dead rats and mice with your bare hands. Wash your hands thoroughly after handling rat traps.
“Stairway to Heaven” How-To Continued
Not sure if the continuation of the tutorial is even necessary at this point. I didn’t have a mouse problem, I had rats! This is why I continue to stress the importance of trading theory for ACTION before you actually need critical gear and equipment.
Here’s how to finish the bucket mouse trap.
Fifth Step
Spread peanut butter over the surface of the can. When a mouse scurries up the ramp to eat, in theory, he will leap to the can for the bait, spin off the wheel and drown. I can’t see why this bucket mouse trap wouldn’t work on mice.
Trading Theory for Action Lessons
This set up is genius on paper. It would allow me to catch multiple varmints without having to re-bait or reset the trap. Set it and forget. But in real life, you’re going to need a bigger bucket – or smaller rats.
The thought of using a wide-mouth bucket to increase the distance to the bait wheel occurred to me early on in this epic battle. But due to my obsession with destroying Ratzilla’s posse in a timely manner, I had no time to waste. I wanted them dead. Now!
What I discovered is that my bucket trap was nothing more than a rolling rotisserie for large rats. Stick with proven traps for Ratzilla and company or build a better mouse trap.
This article first appeared on Survival Sherpa, it was written by Todd Walker and was originally called “How to Build a ‘Stairway to Heaven’ Rat Trap in 15 Minutes”.
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after 5 years of going through exactly what is described here, and trying dozens of every type of rat trap on the market, the only solution for me was this 3-fold attack: 1. completely, and I mean COMPLETELY, remove all food sources. All. 2. Completely, and I mean COMPLETELY, remove all nests, nesting materials, and plug as many access points as you can find with steel wool and expandable foam filler. This is hard work, and not for the faint of heart, but every morning as I turned on the lights to my barn I was stunned to see 30-50 scurrying rats on the walls, floors, stall walls, etc. The icing on that cake was the day one fell from a roof strut right next to my shoulder, past my ear, and landed next to my boot. The third plank of this solution is a comfy .22 pistol and as many boxes of rat shot as you can get your hands on. I shot 15 in one night in less than an hour, sitting in my favorite lawn chair in the barn, sipping my favorite beverage. Rats communicate though, and what works to kill a few today will not work tomorrow. You need to wait 2-3 weeks between bouts of rat-hunting so that most of them forget. I also got a few free (and fixed/vaccinated) feral cats from our local shelter. Since August, I’ve been rat-free for the first time in nearly 6 years. With fall coming and no sign of rats yet, I think I may be victorious. Maybe. 🙂
I use snap traps and also had them eating the peanut butter without triggering, so I ended up modifying the trigger a little by slightly bending them and then making sure to set the retaining wire so it is barely holding the trap open which makes them very easy to trip, and I also used a small piece of chicken wing bone threaded through the bait section and then dabbed with peanut butter so if they ate the peanut butter they might still tug on the chicken bone and trigger the trap. This works well for me, but when you tweak a snap trap for a hair-trigger release I often had to set it in place and then set the bail and trigger because they would often release just by setting them down – they were that sensitive. Because we have dogs I always set them under one of those plastic “mesh design” 2-liter soda bottle carriers with a block on top to weight it down and the “mesh” allowed the vermin to enter but the dogs left them alone.
for mice the buckets work great, I caught 7 mice in one night. I was over run when they demo’d an old house next door to me