You have heard about the common ones, the spider – stay away from them or they’ll bite but there are a few insects on this list that you might not have known are beneficial. This is because these are thought of as dangerous, and rarely ever as helpful. Find out how they’re helpful and see if you should be keeping some of these dangerous insects in your garden.

If you’re wondering what these insects are, then you’ve come to the right place. Here is a list of some dangerous insects that can harm or hurt you, but are, really great for that garden you’re growing.

Spiders

Spiders are one of the most dangerous insects you’ll find hanging around anywhere. They are also one of the insects on the list that you would also not be afraid of. Spiders can bite you, but most of them will not poison or harm you.

Spiders are great at keeping other predators away from gardens because they eat almost anything smaller than them that moves. They help to keep pests under control that would otherwise eat through a garden.

Some spiders that you can expect to find within the garden are yellow garden spiders, brown house spiders, brown recluse, black widows, orb weaver spiders, wolf spiders, crab, and jumping spiders, barn spiders, and so many other spiders.

It’s best to stay covered when you’re in an area where the spiders might be present. Generally, spider bites do not hurt but they will itch with time and swell a small amount. By protecting your arms and legs, especially the ankles; you’re reducing the chances of being bitten.

Mosquitoes

Believe it or not, mosquitoes, the tiny things that bite and annoy you, are beneficial to ecosystems. They help to pollinate all types of plants. They’re also a great food source for bats, spiders, birds, and others.

Mosquitoes can spread diseases, making them an insect you don’t want to be next to. However, since they help the beneficial insects and other animals around your garden, you might not want to get rid of them.

Using mosquito repellent that has DEET in it, covering up as much as possible during the low light hours when they come out more, and using citronella can help to reduce the chances of being bitten by mosquitoes.

Fire Ants

Fire ants are scary-looking ants that you generally don’t want to cross paths with and upset. When angered, they start to bite, and this can sting. Medical attention is sometimes needed when fire ants are involved.

However, they’re one of the best insects to have in your garden. They are one of the most effective insects for controlling plant-feeding insects who come to ruin the garden. They keep the pest level to a considerably low amount, helping growers save a considerable amount.

Not just that, but they’re also pollinators because of the way they go from bloom to bloom in a garden. They do not harm the vegetation growth during their travels, nor do they sit and feast on the plants.

Protecting yourself from fire ants is important, especially if you’re letting some take up residence in your garden. You will want to tuck your pants into your tall socks to reduce the chances of letting them get to your skin. Using a mosquito repellent with DEET in it is also helpful in addition to the coverage.

Africanized Honeybees

These bees have been seen across the news channels as insects you don’t necessarily want around. This is mostly because they’re termed ‘killer bees’ and are more commonly found in Africa. They are both good and bad, and here’s why.

These bees are still honeybees, so they pollinate, provide honey, and do the same things but they’re much more aggressive. They’re so much more aggressive than they’ve killed people. However, since they still pollinate and do the same things that honeybees do, they’re a great pest to have when pollinating and germinating a garden.

While they might be great at all of this, they’re still extremely dangerous. If you find Africanized Honeybees in your yard, you should always call an experienced terminator who can handle the situation. You do not want to get close to them, touch their hive, or try to handle the situation on your own as these bees are highly aggressive and extremely dangerous.

Wasps and Yellow Jackets

These scary creatures are actually beneficial to gardens in a number of ways. This means that those wasps that chase you often actually have a purpose.

Wasps and yellow jackets are beneficial because they feed their young wasps the insects that would otherwise eat the crops in your garden. This means, less damage is being done because there are fewer damaging bugs. They also feed on the house and blowfly larva. This will keep those other insects far away from the area.

Since wasps and yellow jackets are easily angered and aggressive, it is important that you stay safe when you’re around one of their nests. Always make sure to cover up and stay as far away from the nest as possible. Do not touch the nest. You should make sure the nest is at a safe distance away from the garden. This way, you can tend to the garden without fear of the yellow jackets, though they are considered pests.

Final Thought

If you have a garden, then knowing which pests are beneficial instead of harmful is always a great way to flourish everything you grow. This top list of predators might seem scary to you but is doing you a great favor.

Don’t shy away from the fact that they’re scary. They might be, but they might just help your garden thumb grow greener. See if these pests are the perfect addition to your garden that helps it flourish even more. Having a thicker, fuller garden is something many gardeners want, and perhaps all it takes are some new pests. If that’s the case, then grab all the beneficial pests you can for your garden.

Look around your garden today to see if you can find any of the named insects above. Happy gardening this season!

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The post Dangerous Insects That Are Actually Good For Your Garden first appeared on Self Sufficient Projects.

Each cooking oil has its own set of strengths and weaknesses. You will have to be the judge on which is best for your family. You will have to take the time to think about cooking oils, and which to stock up on, as homemade oil might not be capable for many.

The most important thing is to have cooking fat on hand and in storage for your cooking needs when you need it. Here are some oils that you will want to consider adding to your prep, but keep in mind that the way you store the oil and for how long is going to make all the difference.

1.      Olive Oil

This is a favorite oil for so many households, which is why it makes the top of this list. You can use olive oil for so much more than cooking, too. You can use it to light candles, in dressings, and even in herbal remedies.

Olive oil is an oil that can be stored for a longer period than other types of oils. However, it cannot be stored for longer than 24 months. This is the longest-lasting cooking oil you can store.

To keep it fresh for this long and to prevent it from going bad sooner, keep it in a cool, dark place with the cap tightly on. Without doing this, the oil is going to go bad quicker. This is also true for those bottles that already have been opened. Exposing the oil to the air can let in the bacteria, causing the oil to go bad.

2.      Butter

Yet another staple in the kitchen, butter is another one that doesn’t have a long shelf life. Butter, when refrigerated or frozen can last longer than when it is left out. If you’re considering butter, then consider the fact that you can only freeze it for 12 months before it goes bad.

Freezing butter for up to 12 months also ensures that it keeps its consistency. Any time after this and it breaks down and apart. It is recommended to keep the butter cool, if you’re not freezing, though this will cut the shelf life of the product in half.

The good news is that you don’t have to go without butter. You can find dehydrated butter in cans to use for baking. Homemade butter with whipping cream is also an option, as well as canning and preserving it, though this is also not a long-lasting option.

Butter is not an ideal choice to go with for those who want oils or fats to cook with, as it doesn’t last.

3.      Coconut Oil

If you’re into oils, then you know that coconut oil is another popular option. Since coconut oil is over 90% filled with saturated fat, and is also used in many herbal preparations for its antibacterial and antimicrobial properties, making it one of the healthiest cooking oils you can use.

It is used as a wonderful replacement in baking recipes. It doesn’t need to be refrigerated, either. If you keep it in a cool, dark place completely sealed up tight then you can expect your coconut oil to last at least 24 months.

Coconut oil is a great choice, but even two years might not be long enough. You want something a bit more sustainable. Coconut oil can be great to add at the end, but remember, you would have to replace anything after two years.

4.      Canola Oil

This is a useful fat in the kitchen and one that has enough oils to keep everything sliding well. Canola oil is another favorite, but one that cannot be stored for a longer period of time.

Just like with the others, 24 months is all you get out of a properly sealed, stored, and cared for a bottle of Canola Oil. After this, the oil would go rancid. It is not an ideal choice if you want something that lasts a bit longer than two years at most.

Again, another oil has to be kept away from the air and replaced after two years.

5.      Cooking Spray

Cooking spray is one that many people wonder if they can stockpile, because who doesn’t love the ease of use? This makes your life much simpler in the kitchen. We get it, but you can only store cooking spray for 12 months.

Though it is used widely throughout kitchens across America, it is one oil that doesn’t sit well for long periods of time. If you’re a prepper, you want long-term, not short. Since cooking spray has an even shorter life span, it is not the choice to go with for your prep.

It might be easy to use, but it is one cooking spray that doesn’t last, regardless of how it is stored in the storage.

Other Options for Long Term Oil Storage

It’s important to have the right oils that make cooking a breeze, even in a bunker. You are preparing your stuff now, so consider the time frame in between storage and using the product. This is a common oversight.

There are fats and oils you can stock that last for a longer period. However, it is always good to keep track of the times you purchase and add the food items to your storage, as you want to make sure they’re replaced should they go bad within that specific timeframe.

Shortening and lard are ideal choices, as their shelf lives are 5 or more years long. Both options are well-known in kitchens. While they might not be your first choice for everything, and they may have an unhealthier appeal to them; they provide the same nutritional value and serve the same purpose (sometimes even better!)

Final Thought

It is up to you what you choose to add to your prep storage based on your needs, but these guidelines to follow can help you reduce the chances of having rancid oils or getting anyone sick from ingesting the oils.

Consider the timeframes on these oils, as well as other specifics, to make the most informed decision on which cooking oil or fat is best for your family to store. Once you do, you will feel more confident in your abilities to provide the best kind of living if something were to happen. You have them covered, even the cooking oil.

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1. Scallions (a.k.a. green onions)

Scallions are the easiest type of food you can grow. All you have to do is make sure you buy the kind that still has a few tiny roots on the bottom. When you use them, cut the bottoms so that 1/4”-1/2” (6mm-13mm) is left above the root. Place them in a glass of water, leave it near a window, and make sure water is always covering the roots. Within a few weeks, they will have completely grown back. You can do this again and again.

Tip: Just cover the white portions in water, not the green section of the plant.

2. Leeks

You can re-grow leeks in the same way you grow scallions. Just make sure to cut 1/2”-1” (13mm-25mm) of the bottom of the leek with the root and leave it in a glass of water the same way as the scallions.

Tip: You can start your leeks at different times so you always have leeks ready to eat.

3. Microgreens (a.k.a. Sprouts)

All you need to make microgreens is a mason jar and seeds, though sprouting lids would be helpful. Soak the seeds overnight, then place the seeds in the jar. Rinse them twice a day for three to four days. Try to drain as much water as possible when you rinse them. The seeds should be damp, but not soaked. Your sprouts should be ready by the fourth through the sixth day. If your sprouts turn brown or gray, they have been left in the jar too long and are no longer good.

Tip: Read the instructions on your seed packet. Most of them will grow in water but there are a few varieties that need soil.

4. Salad Greens

Salad greens are a great vegetable to grow indoors. You can choose from spinach, kale, and/or arugula. They only need about eight hours of light and do well at 60°F (16°C). They also don’t take up a lot of space. Follow the directions on the package and within a month, you could have baby salad greens ready to eat! These will do well in small separate pots or planted in a row in a larger planter. Make sure you buy quality soil graded for edible plants. Some flower soils have pesticides that should not be consumed.

Tip: If they seem to be withering and dying, check to make sure they’re not too warm or getting too much sunlight.

5. Lettuce

Leaf lettuce can also be grown easily indoors in a similar way to other types of salad greens.

Tip: Make sure you choose leaf lettuce. Head lettuce takes up a lot more room.

6. Potatoes

If you have any potatoes in your kitchen that you have forgotten about and have started to sprout, you can easily grow potatoes in a 5-gallon bucket. Make sure it’s made out of food-grade plastic. Drill 10 holes in the bottom and buy a saucer big enough to catch the water that drains out of it at the bottom. Fill the bottom 4” (10.15cm)  of the bucket with quality soil, and water until it’s moist.

Place two whole sprouting potatoes in the bucket with the spouts facing up and cover them with soil. Keep them well-watered. When the sprout reaches the top of the bucket, add enough soil to fill the bucket 3” (7.6cm) from the top. The potatoes are ready to harvest when the top portion of the plant turns yellow or brown.

Tip: Red potatoes, Yukon Gold, and Yellow Gold potatoes work best for this.

7. Sweet Potatoes

You can grow sweet potatoes in the same way as regular potatoes. Many people don’t have success because many sweet potatoes don’t sprout easily. For some reason, local organic sweet potatoes work best for sprouting.

Tip: You can also cut the sweet potato in half and suspend it in a glass of water using toothpicks to get it to sprout.

8. Tomatoes

While some varieties of tomatoes are too large for growing indoors, there are plenty of tomatoes that can be grown inside. Indeterminate tomatoes get too big to feasibly grow them indoors, so you will have to choose a determinate variety. That means that any tomatoes you grow inside will produce tomatoes only once. They need 12-14 hours of full sun and temperatures of 70°F- 90°F (21°C-32°C). If you don’t have a lot of room, many dwarf varieties produce grape and cherry tomatoes and only grow 6”-9” (15.25cm-22.85cm) tall.

Tip: Baker’s Creek Heirloom Seeds has several dwarf varieties that grow very well indoors.

9. Radishes

Radishes are fast-growing vegetables that don’t need a lot of room. They should be planted where the soil is at least 6” (15.25cm) deep.  Make sure you follow the package directions on how far apart they should be planted. You can eat the radishes as well as the greens.  They are usually ready to harvest around 30-40 days after planting.

Tip: Radishes are similar to salad greens in their needs. They shouldn’t get too much light or be too hot, otherwise, they won’t grow well.

10. Carrots

The trick to growing carrots indoors is making sure that your container is deep enough for growing the type of carrot you want. They need temperatures of about 60°F (16°C) to grow well and need about 12 hours of light each day. Make sure you follow the directions on the seed packet so you know how deep of a container you will need.

Tip: Carrot seeds are very tiny, so it’s difficult to plant them spaced out according to the directions on the seed packet. Just plant them as well as you can. When they’re about 1”-2” (2.5cm-5cm) tall, separate them according to the directions on the package.

Additional Tips

You can grow many different types of vegetables indoors. Self-pollinating vegetables are the easiest to grow inside. Other than the ten vegetables listed above, self-pollinating vegetables include peppers (both bell peppers and hot peppers), all types of beans, peas, and eggplants. If you don’t have the amount of light necessary to grow what you want, there are some pretty reasonably-priced grow lights available to buy. You can even grow some vegetables that are pollinated by bees if you pollinate them yourself using cotton swabs. Essentially, the vegetables you can grow indoors are limited only by your imagination!

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Pigeons have small space requirements with no need for incubators and space heaters to keep their young warm.  Pigeons are often permitted in more urban areas where raising chickens or ducks isn’t legally allowed. 

Why Pigeons Instead Of Chickens Or Ducks?

If you’re just looking for good egg-laying fowl, it’s best to stick with chickens and ducks. It’s also true that chickens and ducks have a lot more meat on their body for eating.  However, pigeons can be raised for a fraction of the cost and a lot less work.  They are often allowed in areas where chickens and ducks are not.

How To House Your Pigeons?

The first thing to consider is the location of your lofts (pigeon houses).  Make sure that wherever you put them, that they get a lot of sun. Southern exposure is best. It is important to keep the housing area dry to keep them in the best health.

For twelve pairs of pigeons, you should have an area of about 6’ x 8’ for 48 square feet of floor space.  Many people surround their pigeon coops with wire fencing to keep them free of rodents. Depending on your climate, you can choose an open or semi-closed front.  In colder climates, warmers for the floor or nesting bowls might be necessary.

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Pigeons lay eggs in a bowl-type container.  The ideal laying bowl would be sturdy enough for them to perch on the edge without it falling over.  Some pigeon enthusiasts use a paper bowl that can be discarded for sanitary purposes. Nests should be 12” across and 15” high.

Many pigeon breeders make sure that there are two nesting bowls per pair of pigeons because will often start laying another set of eggs while looking after a set of squabs.  If you don’t provide nesting bowls, you should provide longleaf pine needles, straw, hay, and tobacco stem to allow them to build their own nests.  Nests and nest bowls should be cleaned out when squabs are harvested in preparation for another round of laying.

Sand or gravel that’s a few inches deep makes an ideal floor because it’s easy to clean.

What Are Some Good Meat Breeds?

There are a number of breeds of pigeons.  Some people raise them for show or flying.  However, anyone who’s homesteading will likely be interested in their meat. 

The two breeds that are the most common and best pigeons for meat are the King and Carneau.  The White King matures quickly, and is hardy, and the white feathers make it easier to dress. Some people favor the Texan Pioneer because they are easy to sex with due to the males and females having different colored feathers.  Some other breeds that are highly spoken of are Homer, Runt, and Mondaine.

You can see if there is a local seller where you can buy mated pairs.  If not, you can get them through the mail.  It’s ideal that they’re about 6-8 weeks old when you purchase them.

What To Feed Your Pigeons?

One of the things that make raising pigeons easy is that you don’t have to worry too much about feeding baby pigeons.  From a young age, the parents feed the squabs a regurgitated food with a milky secretion that they possess.  In fact, some people don’t even feed their pigeons and allow them to roam freely and find their own food.

Pigeons need grit as other poultry birds do.  Red pigeon grit is the best choice.  If it’s not available, then you can use regular poultry or game bird grit.

There are several feed options depending on how involved you want to be in the care of your pigeons.  You can let them fend for themselves for food.  This is the cheapest and easiest option.  However, this will result in laying less often depending on their food supply. 

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It is often difficult and pricey to find feed specifically formulated for pigeons. You can feed them pelleted poultry feed which has everything that they need including necessary minerals.   There is also the option of an all-grain poultry feed.  If you feed them this option, you will definitely need to provide grit for them as well.

For water, you can use a regular chicken fountain.  You can also use a sturdy dish attached to the wall of their housing.  It’s important to change the water daily.  A feed hopper might be a good idea to keep food waste to a minimum but only keep about one day’s worth of food in there.

What Are Some Other Tips For Raising Pigeons For Food?

Ideally, pigeons should be dewormed twice a year against parasites.  Adding half an ounce of 8% bleach to each gallon of water will do a lot to keep your birds from getting sick.  It also helps to keep the water from getting green and gross.

There are some small differences between males and females.  Males usually have slightly larger heads with thicker necks.  They tend to puff up their chest and are more vocal to attract a mate.  However, the real best way to figure out which pigeons are male and female is to just wait until they have chosen a partner to mate with. 

One pair of breeder pigeons will usually produce 12-14 squabs a year. Twelve pairs are a typical amount and will provide your family with about 144 squabs a year. Pigeons sit on their eggs for 17-18 days until they hatch.  

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It’s a good idea to move squabs out of the nest when they’re eating on their own. Other adults can be mean to them and even cause their deaths.  If you do have a separate space set up for squabs, make sure their food and water are set close to the ground.  It’s also a good idea to splash a little of the water on their beaks, just to be sure they know where it is.

Squabs grow rapidly and are usually ready to eat when they’re fully feathered under the wings.  This happens when they’re about 26 days old.   A well-dressed squab will usually be several ounces.  It’s usually just the breast meat that is eaten.  Each squab is considered a single serving of dark meat.  Pigeons are considered full-grown and will start to mate at six months. 

To process them, hang them from their feet by a hook or a nail and cut the jugular vein in their neck. To lock the wings to keep them from flapping, twist them behind one another. You’ll have to pick the feathers out immediately because it becomes difficult if you wait too long. After they’ve been picked, you can cool them for 1-3 hours in ice water, but no longer than that.

There really isn’t a great market for pigeons.  While you can sell them, it’s difficult to find regular buyers.  However, some restaurants might be willing to buy them regularly.

Pigeons make a great alternative fowl to raise for homesteaders, whether it’s instead of or in addition to chickens and/or ducks.

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You can grow with confidence knowing which vegetables are going to make it through these months. Here are some of the more popular vegetables to grow in the fall and winter months.  Make note of them and start growing your own cool weather garden.

Arugula

Arugula is one of the most popular fall and winter months vegetables to grow. You can expect great returns on this veggie. It blooms in the spring, summer, and cooler fall months. It needs to sit in full or part sun, so keep it in the open. You can plant it in any soil, though some say it does better in loamy soil. Choose soil that is slightly acidic to provide a nice base for the vegetable to grow with.

Bush Beans

Bush beans are great and easy to grow, especially since they only need to be pushed down into the soil around 1.5 to 3 inches. They do need full sun to fully grow, as well-drained soil. If you are looking at getting a bigger crop from these beans, inoculating the soil can help the beans to grow. The beans should start to germinate within one to two weeks’ time.

Beets

Beets are also very popular to grow during the cooler months of the year. Thought to be easy to grow, they are great for beginners. The soil should always remain moist so that you’re able to have optimum germination of the seeds that are placed 1 to 2 inches apart and about half an inch deep. The soil should be mulched, which is different from the others, but this keeps the plants warm. You don’t need extra fertilizer and full or partial sun both work fine.

Mustard Greens

Mustard greens will flower easily in the sunlight and even in the cool weather months when the sun is shining down. These seeds need at least 2 inches of water every week, and if the cooler months are not producing enough rainwater for this, then you will have to supply it. They do not need fertilizer to grow, but it is recommended to insulate the seeds using mulch. When the leaves of the plants start to turn yellow, it is time to pull them up before they end up turning bad.

Broccoli

This is known as a cool-season plant, and it is one of the best ones to plant if you want a high yield during this season. It is best to start 6 to 8 weeks before the first frost date of the season. You will want to provide them with plenty of light, especially if you’re growing them inside because, without it, they can become leggy. Expose the seeds to direct wind and sunlight before planting them out in the garden if starting inside the home. They also like soil with an acidic pH level between 6 to 7. Don’t let the soil get too soggy but make sure it is moist.

Cabbage

Cabbage should be started indoors before the first frost. This is generally in late summer for a winter harvest. They can be transplanted into the outdoor garden once they are at least 3 inches or more. The soil pH should be between 6.5 to 6.8. Compost is one of the best things you can use to make sure the cabbage flourishes while planted. The plants only need mild watering, so you want to make sure that the soil is not soggy. Enhance leafy growth of the cabbage using cottonseed meal or nitrogen-rich blood meal. The cabbage is ready to harvest between 80 to 180 days from planting the seeds.

Cauliflower

Start planting in late summer for a winter or fall harvest of Cauliflower. The soil should remain moist, but not soggy to keep the plants well hydrated. The pH of the soil should be between 6 and 7 for optimal growth. If you’re using fertilizer, then make sure that it does not have weed killer in it. You can start the seeds indoors or right outside in the garden. Make sure they have direct sunlight for at least 6 hours per day.

Chard

Chard is a close relative to beets. Chard needs rich, well-drained soil that is sitting in full or light sunspots. The seeds should be planted only a half-inch deep into the soil and 18 inches apart from each other. These seeds should be sowed in the fall months. Make sure to insulate the roots as best as you can with some mulch inside the soil. This is also a vegetable that can be grown in warmer months because it is a hardy option for all-year-round planting and growing.

Kale

Kale should be planted in a full sun area that has well-drained soil that does not get too much water, along with a pH level in the soil of between 6.5 to 6.8. Kale is something that grows faster, so this is good to keep in mind and use aged compost that can help insulate and provide nutrients to the plants. The plants must keep moist so providing them with an inch of water each week is recommended. If it is a rainy season, providing well-drained soil is highly recommended.

Radish

Radishes should be planted every 10 days to keep a continuous harvest going.  The seeds should be sown one foot apart from each other. Radishes also have to be thinned every so often to keep a healthy crop. Water the plants generously throughout the week. If the soil is sandy, they will need more water. They should get at least an inch every week. You don’t want to have them get too dry because they can crack and become inedible. They can thrive in the fall and winter months, whether planted outside of inside, and should have plenty of sunlight wherever they’re planted.

Final Thoughts

Once you have a list of the vegetables that you want to plant in the cool weather, you can gather everything you need to get started. Growing shouldn’t have to stop because the weather outside isn’t warm. Make the most of the entire year when you grow year-round.

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Tomatoes, Cucumbers, Peppers, & Carrots

Common Invasive Varieties:

• Aphids
• Cutworms
• Flea Beetles
• Nematodes
• Cucumber Beetles
• Squash Bugs & Squash Vine Borers
• Thrips
• Spider Mites
• Pepper Maggots
• Carrot Fly
• Turnip Moth

They gather on the buds and stems of the plant. In small amounts, they do not overwhelm the plant. But as they reproduce, they become a problem. Some of these types are easily controlled, while others if left unchecked, will destroy the harvest. Feasting on root, leaf, stem, fruit, and flower. Also, cucumber beetles in particular transmit a viral disease as they eat. This causes the plant to wilt and die. 

Removal Methods

Spraying the infected plant with water, ensuring the underside of the leaves is flushed clean. However, you can spray a homemade pest spray if they are already in high volumes. To dispose of the pests, you can remove the beetles with a small vacuum. If that doesn’t sound feasible to the situation. You can use petroleum jelly on your fingertips to grab the clusters of the bugs. There are also the yellow sticky pads that gardeners love for keeping the insect population low. 

Alternatives

Try planting onions, garlic, marigolds, cilantro, catnip, basil, radishes, buckwheat, or borage, around your plants, will help protect them. The natural odors produced will repel and deter the insects. For specific infestations like cutworms; sprinkling the plant with talcum powder will deter their feasting. 

Potatoes, Cabbage, Beans, & Corn

Common Invasive Varieties

• Colorado Potato Beetle
• Wireworms
• White Grubs
• Diamondback Moth Larvae
• Cabbage looper
• Cabbage Worm
• Black Cutworm
• Corn Root Aphid
• Billbugs
• Bean Leaf Beetle
• Silverleaf White Flies
• Lima Bean Vine Borer 

One of the most decimating troubles a plant could face is a meddlesome insect feeding on its leaves and fruits. Also, reducing the plant’s yields significantly. If left to it, the plant could die. The plants should be cleaned of any damage to encourage new growth. Keeping the environment clear of the invasive insect’s preferred medium for reproducing will help lower meddling populations. 

Removal Methods

Concocting a strong tea from tansy leaves and adding a few drops of either eucalyptus or peppermint essential oil to the mixture. Misting the plants foliage with the mixture will help deter insects. You can alternatively mix up a solution of dormant oil and water. A more combative method is using sticky strips, and cabbage collars. 

Alternatives

Compatible protective plants to grow in the vicinity of your crops are horseradish, bush beans, buckwheat, catnip, flax, chamomile, clover, and savory. All provide a great solution for gardens with a hungry bug problem. 

Apples & Pear Trees

Common Invasive Varieties

• Maggot Flies
• Codling Moth
• Plum Curculio
• Woolly Apple Aphid
• Adult Katydids
• Lygus bugs
• Stink bugs
• Western Box-Elder

Infestation in your orchard could wipe out your entire fruit harvest. Staying on top of the invasive insect population is most advised. These pests feed on the tree’s trunk, leaves, fruits, and flowers. 

Removal Methods 

Encouraging the predatory insects and birds to feast on the pests is ideal. Setting up the correct environment for the helpful insects to thrive. You can also hang moth traps, and spray dormant oil mixtures to smother the bugs.

Alternatives

Planting comfrey, chamomile, fennel, basil, dill, lemongrass, marigolds, nasturtiums, borage, chives, foxglove, and garlic will help you keep your orchard safe from destructive insects. 

Strawberries

Common Invasive Varieties

• Slugs
• Strawberry Bud Weevils
• Tarnished Plant Bugs
• Spittlebugs

These types of omnivorous predators will feast endlessly on your strawberry patch. Not only consuming the leaves and flowers, but they also puncture and eat the fruit. They are all best planted alongside companion plants to encourage an insect-free; vegetation and fruiting cycle. 

Removal Methods 

Following a weekly cycle, thoroughly wash your strawberry plants in a soap water mixture during their entirety. This will smother any hatched larvae, as well as discourage the insects from laying their eggs on the plant. 

Alternatives

Wonderful strawberry patch companions that keep the insects away are caraway, borage, catnip, mint, sage, coriander, chives, and onions.  Another method worth mentioning is the sprinkling of diatomaceous earth throughout the patch. 

Fennel

Common Invasive Varieties

• Slugs
• Cutworms
• Cigarette Beetle
• Drugstore Beetle

Fennel is one of those double-edged swords. The plant is a natural flea repellent but doesn’t make a good companion. Except for dill. Fennel and dill go hand-in-hand. When an infestation overwhelms your fennel, you must take quick action to save the plant. 

Removal Methods

Create natural barriers to prevent the offending insect from reaching the plant. With high banked soil or deeply dug traps, Using sweet creations like sugar, or expired fruit pieces. The insects then can be collected and removed from the garden.  

Considering the bounty, we harvest can partially or perhaps fully sustain our family’s needs. Depending on your garden size. You could be saving money on purchasing your fruits and vegetables by consuming the crops you harvested instead. 

It only stands to reason that we should create a thriving environment for everything to grow harmoniously and plentiful. Developing strategic growing methods to help protect gardens from an omnivorous insect invasion, and encourage the beneficial bugs, parasitoid wasps, and hoverflies. You will be giving your garden some of the best help it can get by using the companion planting strategy for insect control. 

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Snakes are the natural predators of small prey, like insects, birds, rodents, fish, and even some aquatic inhabitants, like frogs. They help keep those populations in natural balance with nature.

Keeping harmful snakes away starts with assessing the type of invasive snake you saw, and in turn, if you should use any defensive measures to protect your homestead.

Physical Properties

Head Shape

Although there is no single method of identifying a venomous snake. There are a few indicators that can help you assess a snake’s lethality. Some snakes can be categorized as venomous by the shape of their heads.

Non-venomous snakes tend to have rounded heads. The coral snake is the exception to that rule. The Coral Snake is the only venomous snake residing in the US that is not a pit viper. The Coral Snake has a rounded head. Differentiating the color bands on the snake can help you determine if the snake is the poisonous Coral Snake, or a non-venomous constrictor King Snake variety.

Snakes with a triangle head and 2 “pits” or holes on their snouts are classified as venomous. These pits aid to the term “pit vipers”, indicating a venomous species. The snake uses the pits to seek infrared radiation from prey. 

Pupils

The non-venomous varieties have round heads and round pupils. Pit vipers have thin, black pupils that are surrounded by yellow-green eyes. Also, they can be easily identified if you are close enough to see their eyes and heads.

Coloring and Special Features

By combining your analysis of their eyes, and heads shapes, you can determine if their venom is toxic. Using any model to identify if their markings or color should only be considered for snakes that have profound markings, like the diamondback rattlesnake. Also, identifying potentially venomous snakes by only using their colors or markings is not an effective method to correctly classify the threat.

A special feature like a rattle can be a definite indicator, but not entirely accurate either. A bull snake can almost entirely convince a passerby that they are indeed the venomous rattlesnake. Their bites are painful, but not venomous or fatal.

Ensure you are factoring in all identifying methods to determine the snake’s true identity.

Common Trespassers 

The Cottonmouth/Water Moccasin

This is a semi-aquatic snake. You will find them near freshwater sources hunting for their next meal. They can be destructive foes should you stumble upon one. They have been known to tear away flesh with their massive jowls. Also, their house has large venom glands that contain cytotoxic venom that can result in amputations or death for the victim. More than that, they have a strike range of ⅓-⅔ their body length away.

The Timber Rattlesnake

Can be found in almost any habitat. Lush forests, waterways, swamps, and even agricultural fields. They have large long fangs that deliver copious amounts of venom to the victim’s bloodstream. Also, they are however mildly tempered and sound off their rattle warning to warn possible threats from their paths. More than that, they have a strike range of ⅓ to ½ their body length.

Black Diamond Rattlesnake

Found across western North America, the Black Diamond rattlesnake boasts a highly toxic venom that requires copious amounts of antivenom doses to treat the victim. The venom attacks nerve endings and causes excruciating pain to the unlucky recipient. They can strike to a range of over ⅔ their body lengths.

Copperhead Snake

A very aggressive species, the Copperhead is known to freeze when stumbled upon and enact a very defensive stance to warn potential threats. They do however have a weaker venom strength than other pit vipers. Copperhead rattlesnakes can strike up to half their body length.

Eastern Coral Snake

A reclusive but deadly snake is the Eastern Coral Snake. They are one of the most dangerous animal inhabitants in the southwest. Eastern Coral Snakes have very little control of the volume of venom produced during each strike. Also, they have the potential to store enough venom to cause 5 human fatalities. This means one bite from them could mean death within 2 hours. These snakes can strike to ⅔ of their body length.

Tips to Keep Them Away from Your Property

Most snakes are active when temperatures are between 80-90 degrees. Hunting during the early mornings or late afternoons. They seek out areas that have a good population of their preferred prey. You can discourage them from hunting and inhabiting your property.

• Repair any cracks, or crevices are your home site. Snakes love to find these areas to cool off, hunt prey, or call their new den.
• Inspect areas where firewood or grain is stored. They also will slither right into a compost pile, or heaps of mulch or leaves. Ensure you keep any of their nesting favorites protected and cleared away.
• Consider installing snake-proof fencing along the perimeter of your homestead.
• Ensure any gardening areas have low grass, and no large holes for snakes to hide and settle in unnoticed.

Natural Deterrent Methods and Products

• Consider purchasing fox urine to deter venomous snakes from trespassing on your property. You can spray the properties area with the urine to mark the territory. Foxes, Guinea hens, turkeys, pigs, and cats are all excellent predators for snakes.
• Snakes have a super-human smell and do not like offending or intrusive odors. You can create a fire pit and add leaves or mulch to it. Essentially smothering the fire and smoking out the snakes. Forcing them to hunt elsewhere.
• Naphthalene; a commercially available snake repellent. It is composed of the same ingredients as mothballs. Without the toxicity to children or pets. It causes no harm to the snake; it is strictly an irritant. Most snakes will avoid the substance and move on.
• Sulfur; sprinkling sulfur powder around your property will cause any slithering snakes to suffer skin irritation along with an offending odor; to vacate your homesite promptly.
• Garlic and Onions contain sulfonic acid. This mild recipe will offend a snake’s sensitive smell receptors and discourage them from settling on your property. An easy formula; half the mixture of garlic and onions, the other half rock salt. 50:50. Spreading this mixture around your property will effectively dissuade the snake from further exploring your site. As well you can plant garlic, onions, lemongrass, and even marigolds to help keep the snakes away.
• Clove and Cinnamon concoction; Using a teaspoon of each and adding to 2 cups of water will create yourself a handy snake repellent. This can be used directly towards an approaching snake. It is not fatal to the snake but does come with the danger of a quickly fleeing snake. The applicant should have a clear indication of the direction of the fleeing snake to avoid being in the way.
• A vinegar solution mixed with water will effectively discourage a snake from further exploring your property. The acetic acid causes the snake’s ultra-sensitive sense of smell to become severely offended. This method is especially helpful around swampy or wet areas where semi-aquatic snakes are frequent.

Worst Case- Someone is Bitten

YES

• Identify the type of snake for medical personnel to properly provide the correct antivenom.
• Seek professional help immediately at the nearest hospital or clinic.
• Lay down or sit while keeping the bite wound below the heart level.
• Symptoms will be immediate and will become progressively worse. Some venomous snakes like the eastern Coral Snake have a delayed venom reaction; sometimes up to 18 hours after the victim was bitten.
• Remain calm, increasing your heart rate allows the venom to be quickly distributed throughout your nervous system.
• Venom begins shutting down our system within seconds of being bit. Some bites can be fatal within hours; so, it is advised to always seek medical attention as quickly as possible.

NO

• As venom breaks down the natural proteins that help our blood clot, it is advised to not use any blood-thinning pain medications to alleviate any pain.
• Try to capture or kill the snake. This could result in additional bites and is not necessary for the victim of the bite. Correctly identifying the snake is all that is needed.
• Suck out the venom. This will get you a mouth full of venom and is completely ineffective for removing venom from the already circulating system of the victim.
• Tourniquet the wound; this will essentially isolate the venom and the wound. Further complicates the severe reaction of the venom.

As there are over 30 different species of venomous snakes inhabiting the United States, it is advised to know how to effectively deter them from your property and what to do should you cross paths with one. It is safer for us and for the snake.

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A Little Introduction into Aquaponic Farming

Fish and plants live together in this eco-system that benefits everyone involved. It can be built almost anywhere – in your backyard, in your home, anywhere you have a bit of room.

You can grow more food with no water wastage, no land needed, and you don’t have to break your back to do so. Everything is done by the fish that are in your system.

You don’t even need to head out and buy a whole bunch of different aquaponics system materials to put together. You can be sure to use what you have laying around the home, and the best part is that it will be able to work just as well!

Setting Up Your System

It is important to look into where you’re going to grow and use your aquaponics system. You will want to also consider the weather for where you live. If you do not live in an area that allows for growing of crops all year round, then you may want to consider putting them inside a greenhouse.

The crops are going to need a necessary amount of daylight to grow, and you should be able to have some idea or control of the temperature in the space. You don’t have to worry about the temperature as much if you live in Florida where it tends to be pleasant year-long, or if you shut the garden down during the colder months in other regions.

If you want something long-term, make sure to take the time to plan out the setup. The setup should be able to withstand the weight put on it, be waterproof, and deep enough for the roots to dig into the floor below.

There are a bunch of different aquaponic systems that you can build. The most popular are the deep-water system and flood and drain system and both can provide enough to feed a family of four for an entire year.

What’s Needed

• Fish Tank (1,000 Liters is Recommended) IBC Containers work well, cost $20 on eBay

• Swirl Filter and Mineralization Tanks (200 Liters are Ideal) $10 each on eBay
• Raft Bed

A raft bed will need additional aeration for plant roots when used. Timber can be used for the beds.

• Media Bed (Flood and Drain Bed) This has to be siphon and limestone-free gravels.
• Pump (always place this in the sump tank) $150 at a hardware store
• Sump Tanks (IBC containers work as sump tanks if you cut them in half)
• Aeration Stones $12-$30
• Air Pump (the stronger the pump, the better for this) $40 – $100
• Plumbing (make sure the parts are connected well. This system can leak if not. You will need to have a number of different sizes of valves, tubes, threads, and pipes. This can all be purchased from the local hardware store for around $200

Create a cycle when you go to connect the parts together. It should go like this: fish tank -> attach the swirl filter -> connect the mineralization tank -> the tank should be in the sump pump -> media and raft beds -> back into the fish tank.

The US Department of Agriculture offers many aspects of aquaponic farming. They include some design ideas and also some information on the plumbing. This is especially helpful if you’re new to it.

• Siphon $10 – $30
• Water (rainwater is ideal to use in the system)
• Fish (Koi, perch, trout, tilapia, carp, and catfish are all ideal but make sure to go with one that is more native to your area)
• Plants (any crops that grow above ground are ideal – tomatoes, salad types, cucumbers, broccoli, grapes, strawberries, watermelon, onions, kale, etc. they will grow much faster in an aquaponic system)

Many of these products can be found just about anywhere, in any store or online. You can find that you won’t spend too much to get started and you spend even less to maintain it. The rewards that come from this system outweigh the costs. You will not want to go back to gardening any other way once you’ve tried the aquaponic system.

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I’ve gathered the top 12 most profitable vegetables that you can grow in your garden. Of course, some are harder to grow than others, but for the most part; they all are an ideal growing choice to go with when looking to make money.

Consider all of these options for your vegetable garden.

1. Mushrooms

You probably didn’t even think of mushrooms as an item that should be on the list. However, growing mushrooms, especially oyster or shiitake mushrooms, can be one of the most profitable ways to get cash from your garden.

They do not need much space, can be grown indoors and barely need any light at all to flourish. They produce one of the highest returns per square foot. Oyster mushrooms can bring in a return of up to $20 per pound.

The best part is that they are space saving. You can grow them vertically in bags that hang from the ceiling. They’re more ideal for local growers because they do not last long once picked and they cannot be shipped across the country.

2. Microgreens

Microgreens is one of the biggest and fastest growing markets currently. They are one of the most lucrative crops. They grow fast, can be turned around fast, and are sold for a decent amount of money per square foot of microgreens sold.

These are also one of the most scalable veggies to grow. You can make a couple of hundred dollars per month with just 5 trays growing in the home. Also, you don’t need a lot of sunlight at all hours, or a lot of space.

You can grow them within 2 to 3 weeks and make upwards of $15 per pound. With shelving and growing on top of one another, you’re easily able to make up to $10,000 per month.

They do need to be sold fresh, though making them more ideal for local growers.

3. Tomatoes

Tomatoes come with many health benefits and you can grow a decent amount of them in a small space since they grow vertically. They need a decent amount of sunlight and fresh soil, but once they start growing, they are hard to have stopped.

You can easily get up to 50 pounds of tomatoes with just eight plants and you can then sell them for around $0.60 per pound.

4. Pumpkins

You can get up to 10 pumpkins per 10-foot row. Though they are not actually vegetables, they are a great choice when growing something worth money in your garden. They are great for cooking with, but they are also more sought after during the fall months, making them a great money-maker for most.

Expect to get around $5 or more per pumpkin. If you can grow a variety of gourds, this can also bring in even more cash.

5. Winter Squash

With just two plants, you can get up to 20 pounds of winter squash. This return is one of the highest. Even if the squash does not go for a lot per pound or squash, the yield is so high that it brings in a decent amount of extra cash when they are sold.

You don’t need anything special besides space outdoors in the sunlight to grow them. No special soil is necessary, and water should be given daily. From there, they flourish on their own. Expect to get around $1 or more per squash.

6. Brussel Sprouts

You can get around 8 pounds per square foot, but they are a high value veggie that can be grown, even if they do not produce a high amount. They don’t need anything special and can grow in just about any environment outside.

They bring in around $4 per pound or more.

7. Peas

If you don’t have much space and you have a decent soil quality, these might be the best choice to go with. You can easily grow a decent amount of them. There are many different versions of peas, but English and snap peas are great options to go with.

You can sell a pound of peas for between $5 and $8 per pound, making them an ideal choice, especially since they yield such a high quantity with each crop.

8. Eggplants

While they do not produce as much per square foot as others, the price is a bit higher because of this that you can get for them. They have a production of around 15 eggplants per square foot. Many people choose to use these in their cooking, so there is a need for them in the market.

They are generally sold for $3 or more per eggplant depending on the market and location.

9. Okra

These have a relatively high monetary value and they’re highly sought after because of the nutrients they hold. They do need more space than some of the others and great soil quality, but with some sunlight and a decent garden in the yard; you can yield a decent amount.

Okra generally brings in around $5 or more per pound.

10. Kale

Kale comes with very high yields and doesn’t take up hardly any space. This is also one of the highest value vegetables on the market currently. You can easily grow it with a bit of space, decent soil and plenty of sunlight. Preferably, it is best to grow kale outdoors.

One bunch of locally grown kale can bring in around $2 or more. You can expect that this is also a vegetable that goes fast because many people are looking to purchase it.

11. Radishes

A lot of people do not think about radishes, but they’re one of the most economical veggies to grow. They produce around 3 pounds per square foot of space. While they have less value than some of the others, the more you produce, the more you can make.

Expect around $2 to $5 per bunch depending on the specifics. They do need a bit of sunlight and decent soil, but nothing too extensive.

12. Green Onions

Green onions are another great option because they bunch when they grow and don’t take up much space. You can expect very high yields from this veggie as compared to others. You can get up to 80 plants from one 10-foot row of onions.

They are highly desirable, making them ideal for those who are locally growing and selling them. You can get $1 or more from one bunch. Since they grow quickly, this is an easy way to get a decent amount of cash every month.

There are so many different vegetables to choose from, but these are all highly recommended for those who want to turn a profit from a high yield with minimal space and work.

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Re-organizing the garden can help you grow larger quantities with little to no extra work. Mapping your garden according to harvest is ideal in this situation. We will go over some tips, tricks, and exclusive hacks to really help your gardening game grow.

Creating a Garden Plan or Map

Creating a plan or map for the garden is one of the best things you can do. Having a plan helps you reduce the amount of time spent planting and coming up with places to put everything.

One of the biggest tips we can provide is to plant your crops in triangles instead of planting them in rows or squares in the garden. By planting triangles you’re essentially able to get up to 14% more plants in each crop. This is because it has a staggering effect.

If you’re planting in garden beds, make sure that while creating your map of the garden, you put the like-crops together in the beds. This can help them grow. Placing them next to plants that inhibit their growth or even stop them from growing can be problematic in any garden.

Setting up your garden plot means writing out a small plan that shows where each of the crops are going to go. It is important to write down the names of the crops, then keep the plan once you have them planted. This can be a great reminder instead of having to put plaques in the soil to tell you what you’ve already planted there.

Planting the Right Groups of Plants Together

Some have found that planting smaller beet plants around broccoli, cabbage, kale, and carrots can expand on the growth of all the plants. This helps these flourishing plants burst out and open up, while creating even more space for the beets to grow.

Consider the plants that are going to be in your garden. You can plant them next to the other plants that help them thrive. Having an idea of some of the groups of plants that like to be next to each other can help. We’ve compiled some ideas for you to plant.

Plant spinach, eggplant, lettuce, peppers, and chard together in one area. This is also a great method for expanding the garden and being able to help them grow. Bush beans and tomatoes also grow well together. Consider putting these plants staggered instead of in traditional rows which can also help with a room in the area.

Add the types of plants on the map that you come up with. This will help you remember what goes next to what and what you’re going to be planting in the same plot.

Here is a quick guide to help you remember what plants go together:

How are You Planting?

Another consideration is how you’re going to be planting your garden. If you are using the plot of land, then you shouldn’t have to worry about space as much. Those using raised beds have limited space that they can plant in, and those using pallets for growing have even less.

Consider your space before making a plan, though you know how to make it, it is vital that you know how much space you have to work with first. You should also consider how some of the plants would thrive better based on where they are being planted.

This means that some standing plants might do better with more root space, while smaller flowering plants might require less space and can grow on top of one another when they flower. These are all great things to keep in mind during the time you plant.

Remember, you should leave some space for you to walk through and take care of the plants that you are putting into your garden. By doing this, you’re making your life a lot easier. You always want to plan ahead of time, as this can reduce any confusion during the planting process, including leaving some space for you to take care of your garden.

Planting Your Garden and Care

Once you have your garden mapped out and put it down onto paper, you can then start to get it together. You want to make sure that this is something that is done with prepped soil. The soil should be rich and have nutrients in it that will help the plants grow much more.

Once the plots are ready and the soil is good to go, you can start planting your plants according to the specific plants you’ve put in a row. Once done, you can ensure that you have them laid out right.

Just remember the instructions on how to take care of each family of plants. You want to make sure that you are taking care of them how you should be. This means providing them with more or less water during the days or watering during the mornings to prevent them from burning throughout the night.

You can plant them within the specified amount of space apart. Every plant is different, though, so this is definitely something you want to look into when you are planting something that you want to thrive in the specific area.

If you are looking at expanding your garden, make sure to make the most of the extras that you are able to get from the garden when planting it the right way. You want the maximum yield, regardless of what the plant is yielding. You can then sell or give away those extras, or even jar them for future use. Whatever your needs are, you can find that using these many tips will help you expand on your garden and get the maximum growth out of the plants within it.

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